Daily Korean Life: Bathrooms 화장실

I am going to start a writing a series called “Daily Korean Life”. I’d like to explore the small differences I’ve noticed while living my usual life here in Korea that one might not usually come across when reading about cultural difference. I’ll first cover the most ordinary part of the day: bathrooms.

In the ultra city of Seoul, you’ll most likely encounter modern, clean bathrooms, nothing different from what Americans are used to. Elsewhere in the country, however, there are some noteworthy differences.

The most obvious difference that a westerner might encounter is the dreaded squat toilet. When I first stumbled upon one in Thailand, I looked at the hole in the floor with disgust. How barbarian! However, I have since come a long way and accepted the use of squatty potties. In Korea, my schools almost exclusively have them (and the teachers share the bathrooms with the students).  There is little to be afraid of. The modern toilet we are used to is a luxury for comfort. Squatting is the natural way to do your business. There’s actually an argument that using squat toilets forces your body to form a position that is natural for bowel movements. I guess I’ll leave you “this link” and you can see for yourself. Another plus about it is that your butt doesn’t touch anything that other people’s butt touched. Now that is disgusting! Once you’re done, you step on the lever to flush. Hands free!

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Is it what it is.

It’s a good thing that squat toilets are hands free because soap does not seem to be required in public bathrooms. I try not to think about how my students touch and feed me Pepero sticks and chips with their unwashed hands. If there is soap in a public bathroom, it is probably a big blue bar of soap on a stick. It looks silly as it is, but squeezing the soap and rubbing up and down to lather up also promotes giggling.

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Soap on a stick.

Not only is soap hard to find, toilet paper is elusive. I am now conditioned to keep tissues with me at all times in Korea. If there is toilet paper, it may be placed in a big roll outside of the stalls for you to grab what you need and take it in the stall.

If you are in Lotte Department Store or some other swanky establishment, you might stumble upon a bidet. During the cold winter months, the heating feature is usually to turn those buns to toast. I never used a bidet before, but there are many buttons so customize the kind of squirting power you prefer to clean your arse. Alas, they are all in Korean.  

Let’s face it: Koreans are vain. Taking dozens of self photos in public and staring at yourself with hand held mirrors for an entire bus ride is completely acceptable. Mirrors. Mirrors are everywhere. Every classroom is equipped with one. It is hard to go an hour walking around Korea without passing by your reflection.  Of course, like anywhere else, there are mirrors in public bathrooms. However, it is also common to find mirrors in the actual stalls. They are placed in perfect alignment with your face as you are on the toilet. It is even funnier when the mirrors are positioned toward the ground when there is a squat toilet. So just in case you ever wanted to stare at your face while you go to the bathroom, come to Korea. If there aren’t mirrors, then there are advertisements that are shoved in your face. Sometimes they are promoting the KTA, or Korean Toilet Association (Yes, it actually exists), and sometimes they are promoting dieting products. In Gwangju’s bus terminal bathroom, there are larger-than-life sized photos of insanely thin women plastered on the bathroom stalls. It is sad, actually.

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Mirror for you to stare at yourself.

It seems that most Korean men smoke, especially during an alcohol drenched night. Girls smoke, too, but it isn’t quite socially acceptable. So, when the ladies excuse themselves from the table and make a group trek to the bathroom, they are not only gossiping and fixing their makeup, some are lighting up in the bathroom stalls. I’ve noticed ashtrays in bar bathrooms littered with crushed cigarettes. Now that there is a ban on indoor smoking, these will eventually disappear.

Because of the squat toilets, the doors in Korean bathrooms are low, leaving less than an inch space on the ground. We were all caught in a stall when someone urgently knocks on the door. In a meek voice, you might say “Someone’s in here!” I really hate that. Korea has a better system. If somebody knocks, all you have to do is knock back. Simple as that.

Another thing that many Korean bathrooms are equipped with is sound cancelers called the Etiquette Bell.  If you feel embarrassed about your body’s natural processes, you can hide the sprinkling and plopping noises with a push of a button. It will make a noise loud enough to conceal the sounds. I don’t quite understand the purpose though. The only reason someone would push to the button is to hide the fact that they’re pooping, but wouldn’t the covering noise be evidence of your bowel movement? Anyway, that’s Korea for you.

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Co-ed bathrooms. I have only seen them in bars, but it is quite awkward having to walk by men using urinals to reach the lady’s stall. For a supposedly conservative country, the presence of these is surprising. 

The last thing I’ll mention is the showers in most apartments. Since there is limited livable space in Korea, things tend to be cramped. I don’t know anybody who has the pleasure of having a bathtub. Instead, we have a showerhead that connects with the sink faucet and a hole in the floor to drain the water. While I do miss the ability to take a piping hot bath after a stressful day, at least my floor gets somewhat clean every time I take a shower. The worst part is forgetting to change the setting on the sink after a shower so when going to wash your hands later, the showerhead sprays water all over you. You learn to condition yourself after the first few mistakes.

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Showers

 I never thought I’d think so in depth about bathrooms before. 

Labor Day

All EPIK teachers were lucky enough to enjoy May 1st off from work. All banks and some businesses were closed that day, but school remained open. For whatever reason, only contract teachers had the day off as we are “laborers”. I don’t understand it, but I’m not complaining!

I had originally planned on taking a day trip to Suncheon to see the garden expo, but I last minutely got invited to go bouldering. I canceled my other plans and decided to take advantage of the invitation to test my climbing skills with people who are experienced. I was told to meet at nine in the morning at a bus stop in Unam-dong.

As part of my trying-new-hobbies thing, I began attending a friendly bouldering gym three months ago.  Once a week, I ride my bike twenty minutes to play around on the walls, trying to imitate the techniques of the more experienced climbers. More often than not, they give me pointers to help me improve.   I since had one outdoor climbing experience with the gym members, but never outdoor bouldering. I was up for giving it a go.

On the first day of May, I woke up on time as if I was going to school. Instead of packing stickers and flashcards, I packed climbing shoes. I picked up some kimbap at the 24/7 restaurant and banana bread from my favorite bakery in town before zipping down the busy roads on my trusty pink bicycle.

I met up with six other expats, three of whom I’ve never met before, two lovelies who I haven’t spent much time with, and one who I briefly met at the climbing gym that week. The group glowed with positive vibes.  We were all grateful to have the day off and even more eager to spend it in the glorious weather. There wasn’t a single complaint from anyone; it was refreshing.

After an hour-long, windy bus ride, we made it to Baekyangsa (백양사). As soon as you walk off the bus, you see the astounding mountain view. I knew I made the right decision.

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Photo by Thomas

The girls were going to go hiking while the boys went bouldering. To get the best of both worlds, I decided to go with the girls and climb later. The pleasant hike was about six kilometers total, with the first half being quite steep and more difficult than the average trail in Korea. We stopped a few times in awe of the view which kept improving with every stop. We even stumbled upon an impressive cave with a Buddha shrine as well as a temple.

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Admiring the view

I’ve done quite a bit of hiking, in almost every province in Korea, and never has it been this peaceful. Korea is a heavily populated country and with so many mountains, hiking is one of the people’s favorite past times. I am usually prepared to see massive crowds of people over the age of 60 decked out with highlighter colored hiking gear, blasting obnoxious music, and chugging rice wine instead of water. Instead, I was pleased to have only encountered a handful of kind people along the way.  After about an hour and a half, we reached a flat open point on the top of the mountain with a clear view of the rolling mountains. The vibrant green trees and occasional pastel flowers made it apparent that it is springtime. Fortunately, there was little urban development to be seen; the occasional rice farm was the only sign of civilization.

Meg and Helen are pleasant hiking buddies. Helen reminds me so much of two friends back home melted together into one adorable being. Meg is strong minded and eloquent. I threw out so many questions about her thru-hiking the entire Appalachian Trail in five months. Talk about inspirational! I’d like to do sections of the AT one of these days. I’ve met so many interesting people in Gwangju. We all come from diverse backgrounds with different passions and stories, dreams and desires, yet we all have the same job. It’s certainly a unique experience. Mostly everyone is open to new experiences and have a thirst for adventure and travel to get to know the world around us. I’m grateful to be constantly surrounded by interesting people. I don’t think I’m very interesting (well, my adoption story is kind of cool), so I feel sorry for them.

Then, I heard it. I haven’t encountered such bliss in months. It was the sweet, sweet sound of silence. Nothingness. The sound waves were trapped under the thousands of trees as if they were keeping a secret. Living next to a busy road in a metropolitan city, silence is something I don’t experience often. My ears are usually acquainted with honks, spitting ajosshis (older men), and shouting children and ajummas (older women). The silence was like velvet to my temporal lobes.

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 After  munching on kimbap, banana bread, and homemade fruit cookies and chatting about diva cups and our exciting iherb.com purchases (we ooh-ed and ah-ed at nutritional yeast and quinoa),  Meg, Helen and I sat in peace as we admired the view. To think I would have been sitting at my desk thinking of ways to get children to say “The ice cream store is on Apple street”.

We eventually started making our way back for the easy part: downhill. Along the trail was a stream with plenty of waterfalls and swimming holes. We made a mental note to come back in the summertime. The boys were way ahead of us. We heard a loud “oh shit!” in the distance. My first instinct was that someone fell off a rock, but after hearing some laughter, we knew they were just playing in the cold water. We followed the voices to find the shirtless guys climbing around a big rock. They must have been exhausted from climbing all day, but they were still determined to tackle the beast. It was quite advanced and even they couldn’t even defeat it, so of course I was intimidated and didn’t bother to try. I’d like to try something for a beginner next time.

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Determination!

We missed the 3:45 bus, but it was too enjoyable to enjoy the fresh air and scenery to feel bad about it. Koreans usually eat pajeon (savory scallion pancake) and makgeolli (rice wine) on or after a hike, so we indulged in some at a lovely family owned restaurant at the foot of the mountain. We sat on the porch to enjoy the perfect weather and mountain backdrop with our gorgeous spread of food. From the looks of it, we may have been their only customers for the past few hours. The man was delighted to serve us and keep our kimchi and side dishes filled. The pajeon was delightful and had a perfect amount of grease to satisfy my calorie deficit for the day. The makgeolli appeared to be homemade as it was not in a commercialized bottle. I must say it was superior to the many other types of makgeolli I’ve tasted in my Korean life. The best part of the meal was the variety and quality of the side dishes. Mountain vegetables, acorn jelly, spicy salad, dwaejang jiggae (soup with tofu, zucchini, scallions, and some other things?), and four-year old kimchi. It may sound unappealing to some, but it was actually incredible. It wasn’t raunchy and sour like some of the old kimchi I’ve eaten. I’m not sure how to describe this kimchi, but i have to admit it was the best I’ve had in a long time. The conversation around the table revolved around how incredibly happy we are at the moment. The weather, food, and people are things we encounter daily, but when they are all fantastic at the same time, people become in a state of bliss.  I know I was in a state of smiles, something that I haven’t been experiencing too much of lately. It was refreshing to be surrounded by such positive and appreciative people. I didn’t hear one complaint the entire day. Rather, I heard them throwing compliments all about Korea and how lucky we are to be living in such a beautiful country. I couldn’t agree more.

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Food flower

With that being said, May commenced in an ideal manner. This month’s calendar is full of excitement:  paragliding, camping on an island, scavenger hunt, hosting more couch surfers, hash run, taekwondo performance, and of course, season four of Arrested Development. It’ll be a good month, indeed.

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Happy people! Photo by Thomas.

Be Flexible

During our exhausting EPIK teacher orientation, we were constantly told two words: be flexible. We were warned about last-minute changes, vague answers, and miscommunication. I have just been going along for the ride with whatever my coteachers decide to tell me. Today was quite a day.

It all began when  I woke up at 8:17. My tired eyes grew wide and I immediately jumped out of bed and hastily got dressed for work. Instead of taking the ten-minute walk, I flew over to school on my bike. I couldn’t believe that I actually made it at 8:30. It would have been fine had I arrived twenty minutes late, but I don’t want to make that impression. Koreans are pretty intense about showing up to work.

“You look tired, Lianne” was the first thing my co-teacher said. Perhaps it was because I wasn’t wearing any makeup.

I decompressed a bit and prepared for the day’s classes. My other co-teacher informed me that she lost the key and we were locked out of the English classroom, so we would be traveling to the students’ classrooms to teach. Not a big deal. Fourth period was also canceled due to a school event. Surprise!

Classes went smoothly; my sixth graders were cracking me up with a charades game we played.  These kids are intense about competition.

Because I slept in, I didn’t have time to eat before school. I wasn’t that hungry, but there was a box of 떡, or Korean rice cakes, in the office today. It’s not uncommon for there to be food that the teachers snack on while socializing. They were absolutely delicious! 

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떡, Korean Rice Cakes with bean paste inside

During the canceled class, we were able to watch what was going on from the teacher’s office. Each grade wore a particular color and lined up to form the phrase “Against school bullying” in Korean. I can’t understand all of the Korean, but I know kids can be cruel to each other. In such a collectivist society, being different is the absolute last thing a Korean wants. Also, it is too common for kids, both boys and girls, to smack their friends on the back or head. I see it all too often. Anyway, after fumbling around and listening to loud announcements, each student released a balloon in the air. The day was perfectly clear and sunny, so we squinted at the sky as the balloons disappeared. I wonder where those balloons are now. It’s kind of horrible for the environment! Anti-school bullying, anti-environment.

Against School Bullying Campaign

After lunch, we walked around the schools and I discovered huge cherry blossom trees and a little park with different kinds of rocks with labels on them. It was right in the school yard the whole time but I never bothered to explore. That was a nice discovery.

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Cherry Blossoms

I got back to the office and prepared for the after-school classes I’ll have in the next two days. Suddenly, a message popped up from the school messaging system. With my limited Korean skills, I was able to make out that there is a sporting event at 3:00 in the gymnasium. Sure enough, my co-teacher confirmed that there is a volleyball tournament. No big deal, I sort of enjoyed going to watch the school teams competitively battle against each other. Then she goes on to say that all of the teachers are playing while she pointed to her bag of gym clothes. Oh my goodness. She said I would still be able to play because I’m not wearing “classy” clothes. I lacked sneakers though; I was wearing the school slippers (You take your shoes off inside school and wear slippers. I love it).

We get to the gym at 3:00 to find the other teachers all decked out in their purple uniforms. Hm, I didn’t stand out at all in my work clothes. It’s like being at the mountain hiking in a t-shirt while the Koreans are decked out in their expensive and brightly colored clothes and heavy backpacks for a day hike. Anyway, we did some collective stretching and I headed off to the sidelines with the rest of the “special” teachers (art, music, English, P.E.). The first game was intense as any game is in Korea and then it was our team’s turn. Another teacher from the office got to opt out and she gave me her sneakers.  I was placed in the middle row. I was totally afraid.

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Volleyball

I think I yelped each time the ball came to me, but I managed to successfully hit it 75% of the time. The worst was the very last round when I hit the ball not even an inch away from the principal’s head. Yes, the loving, kind, 70 something year old principal that had brain surgery last year. I almost hit him straight in the head. I wonder if I would have been fired.

Our team lost but I still had a pleasant time. I consider myself an active and athletic person, but I fail miserably at any sports involving a ball. Teachers came up to me and praised my volleyball “skills”. They were just being nice.

After the game, we headed to the cafeteria where boxes of fried chicken,  sweet potatoes, rice cakes, and 막걸리 (fermented rice wine) waited. I never thought I’d be drinking alcohol at the same table a first grader eats his kimchi after P.E. class.

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Box of fried.

Surprises. Today was full of surprises. I like the unpredictability that is Korea. 

Haesindang Park (Penis Park)

Before I got a copy of Lonely Planet Korea in Thailand 2010, I didn’t know much about Korea. There’s kimchi. There’s mountains. There’s… a park with dozens of gigantic phallic statues?

Haesindang Park, the Penis Park, is in the northeast mountainous province of Korea, Gangwon-do. The park is not only littered with elaborate phallic symbols, but it boasts some pleasant walking trails along the cliffs of the East Sea. So, why statues in such a blatant shape? According to the Korean tourist website, the origin comes from a girl who died a virgin at that location.

“There once lived a young maid who was engaged. One day, the maid took her husband’s boat out to sea to harvest seaweed. Her husband dropped her off at a rock that was at a distance from the beach. After promising to pick her up later, he returned to the beach to do his work. Later, the weather changed, and brought with it strong winds and pummeling waves. The man couldn’t rescue his wife and she ultimately drowned. Since then, the village people caught no fish and some said that it was because of the dead maid. To soothe the spirit of the dead maid, the village people made several wooden carvings and held religious ceremonies on her behalf. After a while, the fish slowly returned and the villagers were able to live comfortably again. The place where the maid died was named Aebawi Rock and the building where the religious ceremony is held twice a year was named Haesindang. The ceremony is still honored today as a traditional folk event.”

I knew I had to see this park one day.

Liz and I had off for a week, so we decided to take a little trip around Korea. After arriving at the Samcheok Intercity Bus Terminal from Pohang, we took a coffee break and loaded up on some snacks. We hopped on the local bus 24 to Haesindang Park (해신당 공원). I told the bus driver our destination so he could yell at us to get off at the right moment. After saying it loud and clearly so every passanger could hear, I wondered if Haesindang means “penis” in Korean. I blushed as I walked down the bus while people stared at us foreigners.

The curvy and scenic ride along the East Sea lasted about an hour. The sky and ocean were looked so inviting, yet it is still February and too cold to think about taking a dip. It only makes you reminisce about summer. Eventually, as expected, the bus driver yelled at us and we got off in what appeared to be the middle of nowhere. The big parking lot was a giveaway so we headed toward that direction. We found the ticket booth with a man who looked like he was having more fun than teachers do while deskwarming. He was kind enough to let us leave our backpacks in his office.

After paying the 3,000 won (less than $3) fee, we started our trek to the penises. No matter how mature you claim to be, it is hard not to giggle while cruising through this charming park.  I don’t even know how (or even want) to describe these statues, so I’ll post some photos. I’m sure you’ll get the point.

Even if you are shy and get embarrassed around things like this (hey, it’s natural!), the park is still in a prime location. There is a museum and a stage as well as a little village. We spotted some kids and plenty of old folk frolicking around. As usual, the ajummas and ajossis took millions of group photos with their gigantic smart phones.

Click to see some photos (Possibly NSFW?)

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Winter Vacation: The Philippines

On New Year’s Eve, I headed off to take my winter vacation from work. It felt strange that time had gone by so quickly that it was already time for a break. I still somewhat feel like I’m on vacation in Korea. Taking a vacation from another vacation was a new experience. Usually, I would call it an adventure or an exploration, but I think a vacation is the correct term for this trip.

I packed only a small backpack of summer clothes and flip flops. I had forgotten what it felt like to wear shorts; my body has been suffocating in three layers of clothing this Korean winter. After a visit to Vora in Seoul, an overnight sleep on a bench at the airport, a squished four-hour flight to Manila, a five-hour layover of playing Sudoku, and another two-hour flight to Davao, I made it to Daryl in the island of Mindanao. It was clear that I was a foreigner. My skin looked like it never saw the sun and I was wearing a sweater and long pants while carrying my winter jacket into the tropical environment. It was also a strange feeling to see someone so familiar in an unfamiliar setting. I sort of felt like I was back in Jacksonville again.

Daryl’s cousin, Jung, drove us back to his house where I was warmly greeted by his wealthy family and two maids. There was a feast set on the table ready for us to dig in after I changed into summer clothes. Since I know how much Filipinos lovingly force you to eat, I prepped my stomach by eating only a yogurt that day. Everything looked delicious. I ate well. It reminded me of Daryl’s church’s pot lucks. Stuffed, I was ready to take a walk or relax until midnight came. It was New Year’s Eve after all.

“Save room because there will be another dinner at midnight.”

It was just the beginning of the endless meals and snacks and coffees I was about to consume over the next two weeks. After getting a driving tour of Davao and picking up even more food at a bakery, 11:00 came before I knew it and my butt was parked back at the dinner table with a feast equally as large as the previous meal only a few hours ago.

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One of the many dinners

Even though only Daryl’s maternal family hails from the Philippines, it is gigantic. I met some wonderful people and ate in so many homes. Their hospitality and selflessness never ceased to amaze me. They warmly welcomed me and allowed me to experience the beauty of the Philippines. It was like their number one goal in life was to make me comfortable and show me a great time.

Every day was a new adventure. We stayed at a different family member’s home almost every night, tried some exotic fruits, took a scenic trip to General Santos, went swimming in a natural spring, wakeboarded and ziplined for the first time, fought in front of Manny Pacquiao’s house, walked more malls than imaginable, had some wonderful oil massages, went on a boat tour, had dinner with a full view of the city night lights, went to a random child’s birthday party at Chickies and Patties, and saw more eagles than imaginable.

The unfortunate weather put a damper on things. I wasn’t able to go snorkeling like I had counted on, but perhaps I’ll leave that for the next tropical island I find myself on. Staying with family while traveling was new for me. Usually, I would CouchSurf or stay at a hostel, explore places by foot, and do lots of hiking. This time, Daryl and I were treated like loyalty and were constantly protected by security guards that are aunties and cousins. We couldn’t really be alone and explore ourselves. That was difficult for me to get used to. It was a cultural difference that I had to accept. I just felt terrible when these kind people of a third world country, some of whom have no running water, want to treat me. It should be the other way around, but they would fight me when I tried to pay for things. When I handed the cashier the cash for ziplining, Jung actually took it from her hand and gave it back to me. “You’re not paying for this!”

While I enjoyed my two weeks in the Philippines, I was ready to go home to Korea for Part II of winter vacation with Daryl.

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View from the line I was about to zip down

Philippine Eagle Center

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Korean Winter

When you first meet people here, one of the first questions is almost always “where are you from?” Depending on the situation, I’ll say USA, Korea, New Jersey, or Florida.

I spent most of my years – 18 – in the Garden State. My memories of the land consist of long bike rides to and from friends’ houses, malls, shows, the “shore”, and diners. Lots of diners. Believe it or not, most of my high school friends smoked, so we’d park ourselves in the smoker’s section for hours into the night being stupid teenagers. I myself never smoked, but I might as well have with all of the second hand that I consumed.

There was a point when I enjoyed the winter. As an elementary school student, nothing is more satisfying than waking up to a blanket of snow in your yard, staying cozy under your covers while listening to the list of school cancellations on the radio. When the news is confirmed, you’re free to snooze a bit more before sledding at the high school or making snowmen. My fondness for the snow quickly changed in junior high school. I distinctly remember having an unplanned fire drill in 8th grade. Our school had a sensible rule (sarcasm): we were not allowed to wear winter jackets in school. So, imagine 1,600 underdressed pubescent students standing outside in blizzard-like snow for almost an hour. I think my battle with the cold began there

My mom made fun of me for wearing hats and gloves to sleep, even in a heated house. I was always cold. My hands even felt too cold in the summertime. People say it’s because I have a warm heart. I say it’s because my body hates me.

During senior year, I decided to only apply to two schools in the sunny state of Florida. I’m not exactly sure what led me to this decision. I was too lazy to apply to more schools and I knew I wanted to leave Joisey.

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Jersey Shore Winter

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Florida Winter. Florida Spring. Florida Summer. Florida Fall.

 My six years in the sunshine state had its ups and downs. I really enjoyed the warm and sunny climate as well as the warm and sunny people. There is a period of about two weeks when it does get cold, maybe freezing at the lowest point of the night, but that’s about it. I considered 60 degrees cold. I couldn’t even think about how I survived living through winters in the past. When looking into graduate school, the climate was almost as important as the mentor. I did not want to deal with the cold again.

So you get it. I hate the cold. I feel like my soul is being taken away. You know what else is cold? Dead people.

After first returning to the motherland in 2010, I knew I wanted to live and teach in Korea. I made the decision to toughen up and just deal with the bitter and harsh winters everyone seemed to warn me about. All of the tiny Korean girls here have to deal with it. So can I.

I packed two suitcases for Korea; one consisted of only winter attire, thermals, hand warmers. My first few months – August, September, and October – were glorious. Florida also lacks the most wonderful time of the year that is autumn, so I basked in the orange and red mountains. The weather kept rapidly changing. I was constantly dreading the arrival of winter. I was prepared for expensive heating bills and many lonesome nights with books and movies. Going out in the cold when unnecessary was not something I ever thought about doing.

Well, obviously, winter has come and it is still here. Actually, it really isn’t so bad. I thought I would cry about how cold it was and then my tears would freeze. The secret lies in thermals, layering, and not letting it go to your head. In fact, I am enjoying it. I don’t sweat and my hair isn’t a ball of grease. My underarms can remain unshaven if I wanted to and I can enjoy all of the hot tea and coffee as I please. Nothing feels better than the hot soups and stews that Korea has to offer as well as the seasonal street foods, 호떡 (cinnamon filled fried pancakes) and 잉어 빵 (fish shaped waffles with red bean filling).

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I will miss these cakes.

I even enjoyed my favorite activity during this season: hiking. The mountains are certainly different when the trees have lost their leaves and the trails are disgustingly muddy from the melted snow. Portions of some trails were exclusively ice. That was certainly an experience. Everyone must have fallen at least once.

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Part of a slippery hiking trail

 In the summer and fall, Koreans are ridiculously fashionable and colorful. In the winter, most people wear all black. Puffy jackets don’t even seem optional; everyone and their little dogs have puffy jackets. My sister gave me a puffy jacket, so I look more Korean than ever. Actually, it is quite warm and light weight.

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Expensive puffy jackets are in.

 Something else that irks me is the lack of pants-wearing the girls enjoy here. I’m walking around wearing thermals, leggings, and jeans, while most girls wear a skirt and some stockings. Maybe they’ll wear thicker leggings if they feel like it. Also, not all boots are suitable for winter, especially pointy toed boots in the ice. I’ve seen it too many times.

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Some examples. I’ve even seen girls wearing shorts in winter here.

I got so used to the stagnant weather in Florida. Maybe it is more humid and rainy in the summer and delightful in the “winter”, but there isn’t a real apparent change in season. Korea’s seasons are so distinct. Every day is a gradual change. It makes the passage of time more existent and in-your-face. While I don’t want to grow up, I think I enjoy it.

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Cold, but I’m happy!

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It has been almost six months in Korea. It feels like I just got here, yet it feels like I’ve been here for a lifetime.

I look forward to the cherry blossoms, flowers, vegetation and festivals that spring has to offer.

2012

Perhaps it’s time for the obligatory “end of the year” wrap-up post.

I liked 2012.

It started off in Shaun’s apartment after we left a Filipino party. The first few months of 2012 was a blur with two jobs. The worst event of the year happened early on, and that was the unexpected illness and death of Daryl’s dad and best friend, Chuck. It was a difficult time. Life is precious and delicate.

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Miss you.

Following a terrible incident was a happy one. I was a bridesmaid in Alexa’s wedding. Although I’m not one to freak out about weddings, their rustic-themed wedding was gorgeous. My favorite part was getting ready in an isolated cabin in the forest. My second favorite part was coming back to the wedding, tipsy, with a pack of Yuengling we took back from the hall and spending time with Miguel, Nicole, and Daryl.

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Things started looking up when I got accepted to join 40 adoptees from around the world to explore Korea for the 10-day InKAS summer camp. A few weeks prior to departing for the trip, I received a letter from the adoption agency with a letter and photo from my birth family.

In late May, I tagged along with my parents to Atlanta for a brief trip. I enjoyed spending time with them at the aquarium and eating fries at The Varsity. They dropped me off at the Atlanta airport where I flew over to Korea. The pilot happened to be a volunteer with InKAS. He gave me a handful of brownies.

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The summer camp was exciting, but exhausting. I prefer traveling alone or with one other person, so being with over 40 other people was a bit much. I can’t complain though because the entire trip was free. I got to attend the Yeosu Expo, watch a Nanta performance, and stay in some very nice hotels and enjoy delicious meals. Perhaps the most memorable was staying in a pension in Damyang and a homestay in Gyeonggi-do.

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I felt a little uneasy throughout the trip, anticipating my birth family meeting. When the moment came, it felt natural. I spent four days with them in Jeonju and I enjoyed every minute of it. Coming back to America was depressing beyond belief. I knew I would be back there in just a few months though.

First family photo at KoRoot

First family photo at KoRoot

The summer couldn’t go any slower as I anticipated the big move. I quit my job as a psychometrist and worked temporarily scoring essays.

I took a short cruise to the Bahamas with Daryl’s family. It was a trip of gluttony and gambling. I did enjoy the Jeep adventure though.

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Daryl and I did a brief two-week road trip covering Asheville, the Smoky Mountains, Grandfather Mountain, Virginia, D.C., NYC, Philadelphia, and various places in New Jersey. We CouchSurfed and camped as usual, but also stayed with Beca, my brother, and my sister. It was nice to be able to see everyone before I left the country.. It was the first time my entire family was together since Faye’s wedding in 2009. I even saw some high school friends at a local pizza place we used to frequent.

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Beca and I being… our usual selves.

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I came back Jacksonville, purged the contents of my room, and packed my bags for Korea. I ate as much pizza as humanly possible and spent time with some wonderful people. Daryl’s mom kindly made a fest of Filipino food and welcomed my friends to her house for a farewell party. It really warmed my heart. Alexa and Tyler even came from Tallahassee to see me. I feel honored and miss my friends and their good hearts.

Then my journey to Korea started. It’s been a ride but I still feel like I’m on vacation here. I love teaching, my apartment, the city, and being close to my family. The people I met here are nice and adventurous, too, all from different backgrounds that somehow led them here.

I am discovering my Korean side more little by little. My wardrobe is bursting with Koreanness and I own a rice cooker. I prefer Korean food any day over Western food and I always make sure to bring gifts to my family and my office. At school dinners, my face blends in with all of the other red faces from the alcohol. I’m glad to finally not be the only one with this unfortunate gene.

I also get to travel on the weekends and visit my family any time I’d like. I went to some festivals like the Kimchi Festival, Food Festival, Lantern Festival, Film Festival, and International Community Day. I made kimchi and tteokbokki taught by ajummas, tried snowboarding, and permed my hair. My Korean language skills have been accumulating.

The first few months here were very busy and exciting. The season quickly changed to autumn, a fleeting season that I miss so much. Winter came quickly and I have been staying inside, having more time to reflect. My head is not clear lately, but I’m not exactly sure what it means to be clearheaded anymore.

It is difficult for me to be homesick. My parents and friends are extremely supportive and want me to be here as long as I’m happy.

I’ll be starting 2013 off in an unfamiliar place with a familiar person. Off to the Philippines on New Year’s Eve! Third foreign country of the year.

Yumi informed me on Thursday afternoon that Omma will be paying me a visit the following evening. With my agenda already clear, I was happy to hear the news. I was assuming that also meant Appa was coming. I meticulously cleaned my apartment and bought some food because they tend to laugh that my refrigerator is empty and my apartment is messy. They then proceed to purchase groceries and clean and organize my room. I appreciate their efforts, but I am OK with the way I live my life and sort of dislike when people go through my things. It makes finding them difficult.

I waited patiently for their arrival, reading A Short History of Nearly Everything to pass the time. Omma sent me a few messages that I had to decode from Korean: something about coming soon and something about a norae bang (karaoke room). Strange. I fell asleep.

Four hours later, at midnight, I heard banging on the door and then my phone began to ring. Delirious and confused, I answered the phone and then opened the door for Omma to run into my arms for the biggest hug since we first met. “윤희야! 술 먹었어!” Yoon hee, I drank alcohol!

In a fit of giggles, she slapped my butt, hugged me some more, and ran her fingers through my hair. 퍼마! She complimented my new do – yes, I permed my hair.

She told me that she met 10 of her friends in Gwangju. They ate and drank until she was full. I never see her drink, so this came as a surprise.  She had a blast at the noraebang and proceeded to demonstrate her dance moves. It was beyond cute. I gave her some pajamas, amped the floor heating and heated mattress pad, and we fell asleep.

My room felt much warmer than usual and sleeping next to another person radiating even more heat made me a bit uncomfortable. However, Omma complained that it was too cold and she insisted on changing the layout of my bedroom so my bed is away from the window. No matter how much I protest, whether it’s that I don’t want to eat or I don’t want her to buy me that expensive jacket, nothing changes her mind and I cannot argue with her. Now I know where I get my determination.

I cooked some eggs, rice, and a vegetable dish while Omma cut the kimchi she made and brought for me – three kinds! We ate that for breakfast along with some strong coffee for me. I felt glad to be able to provide her with food that she actually enjoyed. She refused to eat my spicy potatoes once.

Omma insisted that she must seal my window because it was too cold, so we rendezvoused around my neighborhood for materials. She also kindly picked up some vegetables to store in my fridge.

Having to cancel my plans to hike the mountain, Omma and I went to my aunt and uncle’s apartment near the bus terminal. My other aunt waited for us and she approached me and asked me a question in Korea to which I responded in Korean. It felt happy to be able to speak with her in the little Korean that I have learned. I really like her; she’s a sweet person. The women set a grill in the middle of the living room and we had a feast. They grilled samgyupsal which we wrapped in lettuce along with rice, spicy red pepper paste, hot peppers, kimchi, onions dipped in soy sauce, and whatever other side dish you desire. I call them Korean burritos. My aunt kept making these burritos and continuously shoved them in my mouth. Even though I feel like I ate a lot, I didn’t feel overly stuffed. The food is relatively healthy.

This was my first visit from Omma without Appa, and it was a different experience. It felt a little more relaxed and careful. She’s incredibly warm and friendly. She talks to people in elevators and on the streets. I have yet to witness that among strangers in Korea. I’m proud to be her baby.

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Omma cutting up her homemade kimchi while sporting my pajamas.

The First Kim Sister Trip

My first time in my birth parents’ home in Jeonju, they broke out photo albums so I can see photographic documentation of their lives. There were many, many photo albums – even a photo album dedicated to each daughter. When I turned to the photos of their family vacations – Jeju Island, Japan, India, Cambodia, etc., I began to cry. wishing I could have experienced my childhood with them. I felt excluded. Now that I look back on it, however, it couldn’t be further from the truth. My parents have very warm hearts and am certain that they would have raised me if they could. They wanted what was best for me and that was to give me a life with more opportunities. I thank them for that because I am completely happy with my lucky life.

I’m finally able to say that I had a family vacation. Last weekend was my first Kim sister trip. My sisters have taken many trips together in the past; they are very close with each other. I felt so included and loved this whole weekend. They are just as happy to know me as I am to them. I am still somewhat astonished by it, that they are not jealous of me for getting the attention of my parents or feeling that I’m the abandoned child that does not belong and is now intruding. It’s not the case at all.

After a 3.5 hour bus ride to Seoul, I was greeted by Vora and we subway-ed over to her townhouse in Mapo-dong, a trendy area in Seoul. I was greeted by Yumi’s smiling face, wearing a blackhead nose patch. I gave her hugs, birthday gifts, and many birthday wishes. We were excited for the trip the next day, but exhausted from the week. We still fell asleep somewhat late.

We woke up early on Saturday morning at my sisters’ townhouse in Seoul. Sangjin, Yumi’s husband, kindly cooked a savory omelet loaded with scallions along with brown rice and seaweed soup – a soup traditionally eaten on someone’s birthday. He’s a really great guy. With three minutes to go before we had to leave for the subway, we quickly stuffed our faces, bundled up, and headed off.

When we arrived to City Hall to wait for our tour bus, we stumbled upon an ice rink and a relatively large (fake) Christmas tree. It brought back memories of skating in Rockefeller Center. The NYC Christmas tree dwarfs the Korean tree, but that is to be expected as Koreans don’t celebrate Christmas to the extent that we do. We observed people skating and having a good time until the bus came. We hopped on and found Yu Jin, my oldest sister, waiting with three empty seats next to her. I gave her a big hug and a thank you card with a note I wrote in Korean (with the help of my co-teacher) expressing my gratitude for the jacket, gloves and scarf she sent to me unexpectedly. It was such a thoughtful act and I am forever grateful for her and my family’s kindness. I wore everything well.

Still feeling a little drowsy and my pre-coffee self, I immediately passed out on the bus. Vora did the same. Within minutes, Yumi sent Vora a photo of her and I sleeping next to each other. We wore almost the same color jacket and looked exactly alike. We could not stop laughing. The other quiet bus riders probably thought we were nuts. Well, we kind of are.

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After a quick hour and a half, we piled out of the bus and boarded the ferry to Nami Island (남이섬) in Chuncheon, Gangwon-do. Nami Island is coined as the romantic place in the world. With names like “First Kiss Bridge”, “The Lane of True Love”, “Happiness Village”, and “Lover’s Woods”, it is barftastically romantic. It is hugely popular among foreigners of other Asian countries (e.g., Japan, Thailand, Malaysia); my sisters were quick to name a person’s nationality at the site of a face, but they admitted that they can’t tell white people apart. Undoubtedly, there were more foreigners than Koreans, more couples than singles.

We spent the day walking in the slush, acting goofy, and taking too many photos, both with their nice digital camera and with their phones to send to our parents. Strolling along the partly frozen river and through the romantic path between towering trees with linked arms created some memorable moments. Everyone could look at us and know we are sisters. A whole lifetime of confused faces when my adoptive family is out in public caused this sense of belonging to feel unfamiliar.

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Being Silly

ImageAfter a quick few hours on the tiny island, we attempted to dry out feet off at a fire pit before boarding the ferry back Chuncheon. Still feeling the effects of abstaining from coffee that day, I fell right to sleep on the bus only to be awoken after what seemed like thirty minutes. Did I really sleep for an hour and a half? Are we in Seoul? Nope! We’re still in Gangwon-do to visiting the Garden of Morning Calm. I forgot that this was on our itinerary.

I never heard of this botanical garden before that moment, so I came in with no expectations. The temperature significantly dropped as the nighttime approached, so we huddled outside and finally downed some coffee. Immediately feeling rejuvenated, we entered the “garden”. With the exception of winter, this garden boasts 5,000 different kinds of plants. The photos in the gallery were gorgeous. While the snow covering the gardens was nice to look at, I would have preferred to skip through the flower-covered garden. The other main attraction is the night lights. At 5:00, tourists eagerly gathered around good viewing points. About a dozen expensive cameras with lenses bigger than my point and shoot were set up on tripods, blocking any normal human being’s view.

When the lights finally came on, people ooh’ed and aah’ed. And the touristy photo shoots commences.

Koreans really like to take pictures. They especially like taking photos of themselves. The Garden of Morning Calm is just the place. With cheesy setups of light up hearts, angels, reindeer, and swans, a typical Korean could not resist the photo opp. I must admit that despite the raging tourists, the site was quite lovely. It is perhaps the closest thing you can get to Christmas lights. While I usually am not a fan of Christmas, I do enjoy me some Christmas lights.

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We’re in Love.

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That night, we warmed up in my sisters’ apartment and sipped on some beer with a Kim sister meal. The balanced meal consisted on galbi, potato chips, shrimp chips, potato sticks, oven roasted red potatoes, rice cakes, tangerines, and cherry tomatoes. We gobbled everything using chopsticks – yes, even with potato chips.  I loved pigging out on junk food with my sisters. I can imagine that we would have done the same as teenagers.

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Korean Speech

I wrote a 3-minute speech in Korean for the speaking portion of the Korean class exam. I had it edited by several Korean-speaking people so that it is grammatically correct. Out of curiosity, I used Microsoft Translator to translate the speech into English. It is quite humorous. Enjoy.

Hello. I’m a Rihanna. I’m a United States person.
Korean people I think it is strange when you speak English.
People came in and asked “People’s Republic of China? Japan? Phil Rabin? “”
People say that to the face of Korean people.
That’s right. There is also a Korean man.
Our MOM and dad are not money spent to adopt.
South Korea wanted to meet the family.
Two thousand years-UK-met the family
My family has all six people. The father and the mother, sister and three people and me.
My father is a businessman. My mother is a housewife. Eugene is also a sister to housewives. Yumi sister school teacher. And behold a sister is manga artist.
We are so alike. I really love my family.
Now I live in Korea. I’m very happy living in close
My parents live in the previous
Does it take a bus for Jeonju in Guangzhou. One hour and thirty minutes long.
These days, I am busy.
I’m studying Korean, work, and travel.
Busy parents haven’t a lot of strangers.
I dont want to meet my parents.
We meet at the fun.
If the weather is nice if you are in the mountains. When it rains it into a cataplasm.
The mountain’s more fun than a cataplasm.
In minutes, and I’m interested in the high mountains.
And I’ve learned a lot of Korean culture.
Inside the House shoes you can’t.
Want to learn more on Korean culture. And I want to learn Korean cuisine.
My parents wanted to talk with Korean and want to learn more.
They do not speak English, so I dont want to learn Korean.
They grieve for adoption. I’d have to say it was OK.
Now my family is happy.
I videotaped my speech to practice an hour before the actual speech! I feel awkward taking videos of myself and the speech is far from perfect, but here it is:
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